#93 - Bears & Bobcats

An email quickly circulated among the small hamlet of Portal. Although bear sightings are common throughout Cave Creek Canyon, and local residents are quite familiar with bear shenanigans at their backyard feeders (prompting most to bring in all feeders at dusk), this well-forwarded email made two points. First, that this was the largest bear the original author had ever seen in the area and that the bear had been seen during the heat of day near the most popular places in Cave Creek Canyon: Vista Point, South Fork Road and Sunny Flat Campground. Readers were cautioned to exercise extra care when walking their dogs, as many locals do between Portal Road and this area.

I was sent the email so I could notify the birders, hikers and campers I encounter at the Visitor Center. But my first thought was that I hoped I would see it, preferably when I have camera in hand. I often say that I'd rather come face-to-face with a snarling, spitting, hissing mountain lion than a mother bear with cubs, the latter being far more dangerous, but the email only mentioned one, albeit enormous, bear. I suspected it was likely a lone male, curious and scavenging at the campsites. I too was curious.

As I left the corral this morning, two days after the initial sighting, I had the bear in the back of my mind. However, it was early and I was trying to get to an area where I look for Rock Rattlesnakes just above the Southwestern Research Station. I also was keen on finding spiders so my camera body had my 100mm lens on it, not the 150-600mm super telephoto zoom I use for birds and mammals. Vista Point is only a few minutes up the canyon from my campsite and just as I approached this famous photo-op trail I saw an immense black form on the west side of the road. I quickly pulled my truck off the road as soon as I could and watched as the bear crossed the road about 50 yards ahead of me. I scrambled to switch lenses and, as I was fumbling with camera gear, I noticed that there was two women up ahead very close to where I first glimpsed the bear. They were frozen on the road's shoulder and I next noticed that they had a dog.

As I jumped out of my truck, the bear had crossed the road completely and charged up the hill coming diagonally closer to my position. The rising sun was blinding me and I never was able to capture even a single image as I moved back down the road, following its progress running through cover back down canyon towards Vista Point. However, I saw it clearly many times and it was certainly the largest bear I have seen outside of Yellowstone many years ago. It was the size of a cow even if its shorter legs meant it was closer to the ground. I know most people wouldn't have pursued it as I did, but I did stay on the road and was prepared to dash back to my truck. Foolish, I know, as I can't outrun a bear. Or even a tortoise. But the bear never got closer than about 75 yards from me as it moved up higher the hill and I eventually lost sight of it.

I climbed back into my truck and caught my breath. I hadn't been away from the Wheelhouse for ten minutes and my heart was already racing. I sat and sipped my coffee and eventually the two women and their dog descended the road to where I was parked. I recognized them as locals and we began to chat. They said that the bear was dangerously close to where they were until it heard my approaching truck. That is when it dashed onto the road and began moving up the roadside hill. The woman with the dog recognized me from last year's herpetological conferences, this year's VIC Garden Party and other local places. She admitted that she was prepared to release her dog from the leash. She said that she loves her dog, but would have let the bear get to it before it got to her or her friend. I imagine it was a very intense few moments for them, whereas I was just running on adrenaline thrill and wanting to get a photograph!

Black Bears are dangerous. They may be omnivores who gently eat berries & nuts and don't hunt large animals, but they certainly will attack when threatened. I wouldn't suggest otherwise.


Bobcat (Lynx rufus), Willow Tank near Arizona/New Mexico state line.

Bobcat (Lynx rufus), Willow Tank near Arizona/New Mexico state line.

Another mammal thrill was my encounter with a mountain lion near my corral campsite, but it was over in seconds and the cat's profile is just a phantom memory. The more commonly seen wild cat is the Bobcat and one day when I was about to leave Willow Tank after doing some chores there for Friends of Cave Creek Canyon, this one visited me. Willow Tank is the wildlife pond that we maintain that formerly was an agricultural holding tank for flooding cotton fields. The bobcat was in the desert scrub bushes on the other side of the road from Willow Tank's gate. I grabbed my camera and followed it as it moved parallel to the road, it's sleek shape moving in and out of sight behind the creosotebush, mesquite and other shrubs and desert trees. When I lost sight of it I would quickly move farther up the road in the direction it was heading. It continued parallel to the road, perhaps thirty or forty yards into the scrub. To my surprise, it angled closer to the road and turned towards me. I watched it, photographed it, and marveled at how casual its gait was. It watched me, but seemed indifferent to my presence. I walked toward it as it crossed the road and went underneath my truck. I thought I might have to try to scare it away to leave, but it soon continued its slow stroll into Willow Tank itself where I hope it found a meal of one of the many desert cottontail rabbits currently occupying the temporarily drained pond. It looked a little weary and emaciated.

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#92 - Chiri Charm - Portal/Rodeo

Last year I visited many breathtaking places across the U.S. In Florida, in January and again in March after a February Malaysia/Borneo odyssey, from the Keys to Kissimmee Prairie. On to Texas in April, from Sea Rim State Park on the Gulf, clinging to the Mexican border west to Laredo's urban Lake Casa Blanca International State Park, on to wondrous Big Bend National Park and then Seminole Canyon Historical Site. Then April saw me jumping back and forth between New Mexico to Arizona, camped at places like Picacho Peak State Park between Tucson and Phoenix, visiting the Superstition Mountains and the Sky Island complexes of the Santa Catalina and Santa Rita Mountains.

Last weekend, while I was in Paradise banding hummingbirds, the annual Elegant Trogon count took place here in the Chiricahuas. As arriving birders associated with the Tucson Audobon Society arrived, I was struck by the newcomers who had never visited the Chiris before and their love-at-first-sight enthusiasm for Cave Creek Canyon. Their home was Madera Canyon, another American nesting spot of the Mexican bird. Situated in the Santa Ritas south of Tucson, about halfway between that population center and the Mexican border, Madera Canyon is incredible. I visited it first with my arachnologist friend Brent and his students, and then again after they moved on toward California. I look forward to my next visit. But it is a short drive from the Sonoran desert sprawl of America's thirty-third largest city, whose greater metropolitan area is home to more than one million people. It ain't exactly a "well kept secret" as I have heard remarked about Cave Creek Canyon.

Even closer to Tucson city limits, the Santa Catalinas draw daily visitors from Phoenix as well. The Catalina Highway that rises to above 9000 feet near Mt. Lemmon is thirty miles of perfectly paved access to high elevation heat relief. I look forward to my next visit to this Sky Island as well, and have fond memories of a hot and dry day in Tucson becoming an evening flipping snow-covered rocks in successful search of scorpions.

The Trogon count participants that spend a great deal of time in Madera Canyon marveled at the Chiricahuas just as I did when I visited last year for a week that turned into four months. I still marvel every day, and each day I work at the VIC someone remarks on the uniqueness and splendor of Arizona's largest Sky Island. Far off the beaten path, the Chiri charm and cheer takes a little more work to experience.

Some Arizonans who venture toward the Chiris simply visit the Chiricahua National Monument on the west side of the range after leaving the interstate at Willcox. Fort Bowie National Historic Site lies in the valley below and a full day's outing can be had visiting both. Only the few cross Onion Saddle to descend toward Cave Creek Canyon and Portal. Others make Cave Creek Canyon their destination, most staying on the interstate into New Mexico and dropping south on Highway 80 five miles into the state and proceeding thirty miles to Rodeo, NM before heading back west into Arizona to Portal.

Aerial view of Portal, AZ and Cave Creek Canyon. Photo by BAlvarius/Wikimedia Commons

Aerial view of Portal, AZ and Cave Creek Canyon. Photo by BAlvarius/Wikimedia Commons

Straddling two states, the Portal/Rodeo community has a charm that affects arrivers who don't mind being in the middle of nowhere. But first, the confusing time zones takes getting used to. It isn't just that it is one hour earlier in Arizona and you may enter and leave both states multiple times in a day. It's that today we are slaves to smartphones and, when you leave the WiFi offered by the VIC or your lodging or wherever, your cell phone will pick up signal from New Mexico only. You may have remained in Arizona, but now your phone makes you think you've lost an hour. I've changed my setting to disable automatic time zones. The bigger issue with the New Mexico cell signal is in the event of an emergency. Should you need to call 911 you will be contacting services in New Mexico and may have to request transfer to Cochise County ARIZONA emergency dispatch. I have the direct numbers in my phone. Verizon is the only reliable carrier for use in the area, but the signal may be weak or nonexistent in some spots. One of the many services the Friends of Cave Creek Canyon provides at the VIC is public WiFi during open hours (9-4 daily, AZ time) and a Verizon Hotspot.

The VIC - Cave Creek Canyon Visitor Information Center

The VIC - Cave Creek Canyon Visitor Information Center

Nine miles into Arizona, Portal is the hub of the area. Although Rodeo, New Mexico has a post office and a small diner that has an extremely limited selection of groceries, arguably the only two major establishments are Rusty's RV Ranch and the Chiricahua Desert Museum. The latter is the must see attraction in the area. It sits between Rusty's to the north and the Rodeo proper to the south, directly where Highway 533 heads towards Portal and Cave Creek Canyon. After passing State Line Road you are in Arizona and Hwy. 533 is better known as Portal Road. 

Chiricahua Desert Museum & Geronimo Event Center - Image from CDM Facebook

Chiricahua Desert Museum & Geronimo Event Center - Image from CDM Facebook

The Sky Island Grill & Grocery will soon become the third Rodeo establishment of note, but it is only just now sometimes opening its doors after being in development for years. It sits just inside New Mexico a short distance from the Chiricahua Desert Museum just before the bend to the northwest takes you into Arizona.

Consisting really of only one intersection, the crossroads of which is a complex known Portal Peak Lodge and Portal Store & Cafe, the tiny eclectic community of Portal, said to be home to more Ph.Ds per capita (retired) than anywhere else in Arizona, is centered on this venue for lodging, good food and, occasionally, live music. Up the hill to the north is the Portal Rescue & Fire where special events and meetings are also held and south down Rock House Road is the small post office and library. The rest of Portal are the residences that stretch out into the desert or up toward the canyon. I overheard one resident in the library mentioning how she feels like there are two communities - the desert and the canyon. This is where two worlds meet; the Chihuahuan Desert of Rodeo and eastern Portal and the foothills and entrance to Cave Creek Canyon, the Coronado National Forest and the Chiricahua Mountains.

Storefront - Lodge behind left - Image from web search

Storefront - Lodge behind left - Image from web search

You may now be wondering about how many people live in the hamlet of Portal. A web search results in wide-ranging population estimates from 100 to more than 1300. Homes are secluded down dirt roads branching from Portal Road, but I can't imagine where one thousand or more people would reside. There aren't exactly apartment complexes. It is no surprise that the median age is just above my own soon-to-be 54, or that most households consist of just two people, generally a retired couple. It also isn't a surprise that more than 10% hold a graduate degree. What Portal residents have most in common is that many are birders and/or hikers and/or astronomers. And they live in one of the most beautiful places in America. They are also more than a little adventurous and industrious, and choose to live somewhere fairly remote. It is twenty-five miles each way to Animas, NM, where the Valley Mercantile offers hardware, feed, convenience groceries and, thankfully via 24-hour pumps, the closest fuel. About the same distance up a primitive mountain road and almost one hour's drive takes you to the interstate and San Simon, AZ where you can also buy fuel and one gas station offers a pretty good selection of produce, groceries and hardware. Most drive 75 miles northwest, entering New Mexico before returning to Arizona, to the Safeway in Willcox, AZ, or instead travel 60 miles or so southeast to the Wal-Mart in the border town of Douglas, AZ in order to shop. These cities also offer the closest health care services and other needs. Northeast of Portal-Rodeo, Lordsburg, NM is about the same distance as Douglas, but its little grocery store is pretty dismal. Some plan weekend trips 350 miles round-trip to Tucson to take care of many tasks every few months. It's the price you pay to dwell next door to a canyon and mountain range where Elegant Trogons and Blue-throated Hummingbirds fly, without the influx of city folk seen by Madera Canyon and other wonderful places.

Blue-throated Hummingbird, Cave Creek Canyon

Blue-throated Hummingbird, Cave Creek Canyon

Those, like me, who visit the Portal-Rodeo area and the northeast side of the Chiricahuas have a handful of choices for lodging. Here in Cave Creek Canyon, there are three forest service campgrounds and, beyond where the paved road ends and becomes a primitive road climbing the mountain, there are some excellent dispersed campsites. Those seeking cooler climes may wish to camp at Barfoot or Rustler Park, where the 8000 foot-plus elevation provides respite from the heat. However, like the other dispersed sites, there are no toilets. Those with RVs best stay at Rusty's; only one of the three USFS campsites can accommodate small campers and there are no hook-ups. Many birders choose one of several B&Bs along Portal Road or Portal Peak Lodge. The USFS also has two rental cabins on each side of the VIC. Housekeeping cottages at Cave Creek Ranch are one of the more popular places for birders to stay and it is within walking distance of the VIC. In fact, owner Reed Peters is also the president of Friends of Cave Creek Canyon, and it is at his Ranch that I receive mail, packages and do my laundry. Guests at Cave Creek Ranch enjoy coatis, javelinas, a large population of very tame Coues or Desert White-tailed Deer and a spectacular variety of birds.

One of the variety of cottages at Cave Creek Ranch - Image from CCR website

One of the variety of cottages at Cave Creek Ranch - Image from CCR website

#89 - Life at the Corral

A home with wheels. Parked at a corral where the forest service has held horses used in ranging cattle wandering the wilderness. Where I have fed the remaining hay to the Coue’s White-tailed Deer that come to drink from the trough at dusk each day. Hummingbirds, Acorn Woodpeckers, Mexican Jays and Black-headed Grosbeaks empty my feeders. Western Tanagers dart through camp, their crimson heads and black and yellow bodies creating vivid streaks of color.

Acorn Woodpecker at The Corral

Acorn Woodpecker at The Corral

Early to bed, early to rise. Neither wealthy nor wise. At dawn I replenish the nectar in the hummingbird feeders at camp before taking the minute stroll down to the VIC to put the feeders there back outside. This morning I was there before 5 a.m. By dusk I return to the ViC to leave one hummingbird feeder at the VIC out for the bats, but put the five others in the refrigerator overnight so as to not attract bears. As darkness envelops the rock faces, I sit beneath the feeders as the Mexican Long-tongued Bats come in to feed. The sound and air movement as they deftly fly around and above me increases as more are drawn to the sugar water, and occasionally I light up my flashlight to see flocks of them dine and dash. They do not perch like hummers, nor even pause. They lap up nectar with an instant tap of the feeder and just as rapidly turn away to bank and prepare for another approach. When I return the next morning the feeder will be empty and the concrete porch below will have a shiny sugar stain.

Last night I had some landscaping to do. I went down to the VIC earlier than usual to plant six Salvia in a flower bed. The heat of the day was fading but I still worked up a bit of a sweat, or at least a thirst. I returned to camp to wash up and grab a beer, but decided to return to the VIC as it my reliable source of Wi-Fi and I thought I’d catch up while I enjoyed the drink in the fading light of the peaceful canyon. 

Walking my path back up to the corral I noticed a wild turkey behind my Wheelhouse. The Mexican subspecies called ‘Gould’s Wild Turkey’ is found here and has benefited from reintroduction efforts. I had seen a lone hen a couple times over the past couple weeks in the vicinity of the VIC and the single female at my camp may have been the same. I set down what I was carrying and tried to approach with as much stealth as possible. As I approached she headed away from me towards my bird feeder area, which is on the far or ‘up canyon’ side of my camp. There I have a chair and small table positioned so I can sit and enjoy the birds and I was able to slide into my seat while watching her peck about the feeding area. To my surprise when she decided to move on she came directly toward me and walked three feet away from my camp chair as if I wasn’t even there.

This morning after doing my chores here at the corral and at the VIC I headed up South Fork Road to do some birding. The manager of the VIC, Mike Williams, has a houseguest from Denver who would be meeting one of my fellow volunteers who lives here in Portal and is well-known in these parts as a bird photographer. I’m an early riser so I had a head start on them and finally met up with them an hour and a half after I began. The three of us headed up South Fork Trail and the highlight of the day for all of us became seeing a White-nosed Coati. We noticed a large group of Mexican Jays were riled up about something and their cacophony drew us to the area. After some time I showed the other two guys the reason. A single Coati was up a tree and the jays were less than pleased. I have had the pleasure of seeing Coatis in Costa Rica, and I know my family has enjoyed the ‘resort tame’ Coatis that are human-habituated in Cabo San Lucas and the Dominican Republic, but this was my first observation of a Coati within the United States. For Scott, the gentleman from Denver who Mike met when they both owned Wild Birds Unlimited franchises (Scott still has his), it was his first Coati experience ever. Interestingly, while Coatis are normally seen in groups, here in the Chiricahuas I am told that they are typically loners. I knew it was only a matter of time before I’d finally see one in America, especially since the best place to encounter one is at Cave Creek Ranch just below the VIC where I will now be doing my laundry and receiving mail and packages, but it was a special treat to see one away from bird feeders and other humans.

White-nosed Coati, South Fork Canyon, Chiricahua Mountains

White-nosed Coati, South Fork Canyon, Chiricahua Mountains

A Gould’s turkey in camp last night and a Coati this morning? How can you top that? How about a mountain lion going through your campsite in broad daylight? At 1 pm? In 94ºF heat? Yes, that happened. 

Tomorrow morning is the VIC’s annual event - a garden party with exhibitors displaying reptiles or bugs or selling plants or explaining the local rescue service and more. I have been doing a lot of work to prepare for it and today I had to go to Portal Rescue to pick up tables so after my morning birding, which was followed by making myself a guacamole-bacon-tomato omelette brunch, I backed up my truck to unload three large coolers that I had picked up for the event. I looked toward my feeding area and saw a cat. It was walking casually as if a midday mountain lion is a normal occurrence and it owned the bloody place. In a way, I guess it sort of does. It takes time for a brain to process seeing something like this. I may have been slack-jawed, but I certainly froze. Its long lean form was unmistakable but the computations inside my head first yielded a response of ‘bobcat’. It took a few seconds for my mind to rework the equation and realize that bobcats weigh 15 pounds and this animal was probably about 75. Adult male mountain lions can exceed 200 pounds, whereas females are usually closer to 100, so this may have been a small female or a youngster of either sex, but it was a hell of a lot larger than a bobcat, which - of course - is named for its bobbed tail and this one had a long tail. The cat was perhaps 40 yards from me and never once did anything to let me know it was even aware I was there. It was moving perpendicular to my position, crossing the open grass behind the agaves and cane cholla and trees that surround my camp. I walk everywhere with my camera slung over my shoulder just because of chances like this, but since I was unloading my truck and getting ready to pull out, my camera was in my truck. I went to grab it but that was the last I saw of the cougar. 

We have mountain lion sightings in this area at least once a week. My colleague Joan said she saw the rear end and tail of one below the VIC where the two primary RV sites where she is camped lie just a few days ago. Two days ago someone saw one by the campgrounds that are walking distance up the road from me. We’ve had a few recent bear sightings as well including a mother and cubs up the road a few blocks from here. I previously told the story of the dog-hunting bobcat that was reported a month ago at Herb Martyr Campground, which is about five miles up canyon from here. Yet people and dogs are here every day and conflict is rare.